We are Humans

Remove from your mind everything you have been told about these people. Remove your political affiliation, remove the fact that the media has labeled them terrorists since before a time you can remember, and see them instead as I now see them: fathers, mothers, children. It doesn't matter if you dress in a niqab, or if you walk around with scripture tied to your head with leather straps, or if you are a Mormon from San Diego, we are all doing our best to live a good life and praise the same God. What I witnessed in Jerusalem was deplorable. It was the first time in my life that I have witnessed racism- real hatred of another "race" that brought tears to my eyes over and over and over again. Arabs, no matter if they are Christian or Muslim, are denied the right to vote, citizenship, running water, sewage, garbage collection, schools for their children, the ability to travel or drive on roads, freedom- the very thing that we Americans boast about fighting for. Many are essentially locked in ghettos as a result of the separation wall, or what the Arabs call, the apartheid wall. Regardless of what people consider race, or a difference of religion, a government that denies half its people basic human rights is something I will never support, and I'm ashamed that my taxes assist in their efforts. I feel like my experience in the Middle East is a gift, and the things I have learned on my own accord have changed my heart. Maybe reading about them changed yours, too.

With that said, our final week was spent in the religious capital of the world, and the city did not disappoint! I was most touched at the garden tomb, where many believe Christ was laid to rest. On the door to the tomb, there is carving that reads, "He is not here, for he is risen." There is an unspoken reverence at that place. The garden of Gethsemane, similarly, was my other favorite spot. While walking around the garden, pointing out birds with London, I couldn't help but feel grateful for my Savior. We visited more tunnels, ruins, and churches than I ever could recall, but what I enjoyed most was walking around Jerusalem and meeting the people. 


Sitting on my mother-in-law's couch now, in Hillsboro, Oregon, I miss the Middle East. I miss the kindness and the simplicity of a place that is so different from America in so many ways, that it becomes easy for us to label and to separate and to dismiss and to fear.  

Milk and Honey

I'm starting to wonder why all of the Bible videos show this land as a desert with tan stone buildings where everything is covered in a fine layer of sand. Northern Israel, where you find Galilee and Nazareth, looks like a mix between California and Ireland. The rolling hills are coated in bright green grass, there are springs and rivers and forests of eucalyptus and pine trees on every square inch of land, and we have yet to experience a day without rain. Kyle even says it reminds him of Portland! Ahhhh! And the apples! The Golan Heights has the juiciest, sweetest, and crunchiest apples I have ever tasted- and they are 100% natural! The honey here is somehow extracted from-dates! I made Kyle buy me a jar because it looked to die for. To be fair, it is winter here, but still, this is all completely unexpected! Israel is much more like America than Jordan was, in that it's clean and well cared for- except for the areas where the Palestinians live, and clearly no tax dollars are spent. Also, nothing here is written in English- so I can't exactly function in public without our tour guide.

London found a crab!

So far, we have hiked the trails of two tributaries leading to the Jordan River, taken a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee, visited the location of the Sermon on the Mount, and visited dozens of ruined ancient towns. Everywhere we go brings light to Bible stories I've studied since birth, adding new layers of understanding to my faith. 

The Golan Heights

I have to say, my favorite experience was Saturday (the Sabbath here) when we had church in a building overlooking the Sea of Galilee.  The church branch is comprised of people who speak Arabic, Hebrew, Spanish, English, and Russian.  All around me, the speakers' words were being translated into five languages, with the help of several BYU students, including the ever-talented Kyle :-) The entire meeting was truly miraculous.

The view from church.

Despite the fact that every site we see is glorious, I can't imagine touring for another week and a half! Our days begin at 6 am and wrap up around 9:30 pm. It's hard enough to keep a 17 month old happy on a bus for twelve hours a day--------but London is breaking in a gnarly molar. My sweet child is miserable. Yesterday, we returned to the kabbutz (a Jewish communal living center turned hotel) and I ran to the convenience store inside to get London some ice cream in hopes of soothing her poor mouth. We hadn't left the check-out stand when I got the first bite into her mouth-- instant relief! My sheer exhaustion seemed to dissipate with every spoonful.  However, I soon learned that it's illegal (not kosher) here to have dairy and meat products in the same place within 4 hours of each other, and, lucky me, there were meatballs for dinner that night. Within thirty seconds, I was rushed off by the hotel manager who made certain I left immediately. Of course, at the time, I had no idea why she was being so rude to me and my baby who was drenched in tears. I was sufficiently angry.

Currently, I'm writing this from a convent in Nazareth, which is kind of awesome. The bus dropped us off on a busy street at the bottom of a hill, and we walked up to the top where a church and convent stand side by side. We just got here tonight, so I haven't had a chance to see the sights yet! Tomorrow, we're going to a town where people dress and act like they did two thousand years ago- like Colonial Williamsburg but about a million times more fabulous. If there was one word to describe my thoughts about northern Israel, it would be: impressed.

Saying Goodbye

Kyle's Aunt's friend's sister, Nancy, had us over this weekend. We ate falafel sandwiches and tons of karkade tea, and swapped stories for the last time. I will miss Nancy and our insightful discussions about Middle Eastern culture and Islam. Mostly, I'll miss how wonderful it was to be in their home and feel the warmth of their family.

Sunday was our last visit to the orphanage. Kyle and I shopped for hours downtown looking for the perfect gifts to give my girls. I finally settled on two silver bracelets from the jewelry suq, and the salesman wrapped them up nicely in jewelry boxes and gift bags. 

When I got to the orphanage and the girls and I settled down in the study room, they had some exciting news for me. They said, "Teacher, we have an exam!" I thought they were referring to an upcoming exam that we had to prepare for, but they corrected me. "No, we have it!" The girls smiled at each other, reached under the table and simultaneously pulled out the exams we studied for last week. Their English teacher had written EXCELLENT on the tops of both! A's all around! The girls were beaming. I jumped out of my chair to hug and kiss them both. I cheered, "I knew you were geniuses! You girls are fabulous! I'm beyond proud of you!" They laughed and said, "The teacher is very happy! The sisters (who run the orphanage) are very happy! You are the best, Bristyl!"

I figured that was the perfect time to give them their "never forget how much I love you" bracelets. I told the girls to close their eyes while I pulled the presents out of my bag. When they opened their eyes, my girls looked so happy! They carefully pulled out the jewelry boxes and started thanking me graciously. They thought the jewelry boxes were the gifts! I told them, "No, no! Open the box!" They did. 

My heart absolutely melted. Their sweet eyes were overcome with the most sincere gratitude I have ever witnessed. They instantly attacked me and I almost fell off my chair! "Oh, Bristyl! I love you so much! Oh, it is so beautiful! Oh, I love you! Oh, thank you!" We all had teary eyes. They put them on, but then asked if I would wrap them back up. The girls wanted to put the bracelets under the tree so they could have something to open on Christmas morning. 

It's so strange- to fall in love with two Jordanian orphans only to realize that you might never see them again. I told them I would find them if I come back to Jordan, and made them promise to stay at my house when they come to America someday. The saying comes to mind, "Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened". So here I sit, trying to smile. 

The one souvenir I wanted to bring home for myself was a mosaic. Jordan is famous for them--specifically a small town about an hour away, called Madaba. We stopped there briefly during our first week here, but did not have the opportunity to buy one or even shop around. So we planned a trip to Madaba for our final weekend in this great country. 

There is a man named Osama who owns the two nicest mosaic shops in Madaba. His two sons, 5 and 7, have cystic fibrosis. The LDS senior missionary couples volunteer their time at a rehabilitation/physical therapy center where his sons receive treatment. Osama quickly found out that we are also Mormon, and couldn't say enough about how the missionaries had impacted the lives of his children. He told me, "Bristyl, pick out your favorite mosaic." I laughed and said, "I can't afford my favorite mosaic!" He said, "Yes, yes, you can. I will make you a special price, just for you, because I want to share some of the kindness that was shown to me and my boys. This is the only way I know how to say 'thank you'." My eyes welled up. I cautiously pointed at a breathtaking mosaic of the tree of life. "Yes, this one is perfect for you! Just pay me when you can and make sure to send me a picture of this hanging on your wall!" We thanked Osama a billion times. His generosity wasn't spent yet- he also gifted London two stuffed camels that she has yet to put down. 

Sometimes I forget that people that wonderful exist in the world. People who would be so kind to absolute strangers. And then, I'm reminded of all the people we have met here, who without hesitation, treat us like family. People who, if I have any say in the matter, are going straight to heaven.